Igloo Building

In the path of the elders


Contents

1. Introduction

2. Tools used

3. Knowing when to build

4. Knowing where to build

5. Checking for good snow

6. Building the igloo

7. Further considerations

8. Closing thoughts








Introduction

      In what follows, I outline the steps of igloo building. This is by no means an authoritative guide to igloo building as I
briefly discuss what takes place. However, I have tried to clearly show the process. The photographs taken show the work of novice and experienced builders. To accompany the photographs are cad drawings that point out the more difficult features of the building process. What makes this work of value is that the skills shown here were learned from Inuit Elders of the Arctic. In fact, many Elders were born in igloos and lived the traditional way of life before moving into communities (Baker Lake) in or around the 1950's. Hence, their knowledge forms a direct link to a people that have lived the nomadic life where igloo building was an important aspect. However, most of the Elders speak Inuktitut with little to no English. Hence, translators were often needed. It should be clear then that any shortcomings in this guide are mine alone.
     I intially learned igloo building from a friend upon arriving in Baker Lake. We have since built a few together--including larger igloos where a few New Years were celebrated. Prior to this, I was adept at constructing the quinzhee--the southern cousin of the igloo. Since, I have had Inuit Elders join my outdoor survival classes and land trips to demonstrate igloo building and other land skills. Hired elders have taught me igloo building on the side. Also, our predominately Inuit community hosts igloo building contests where the Elders quickly fashion igloos; which, is a great way to watch the skills in action. A further note on this: while taking photographs at one contest, I had difficulty winding my camera (manual camera) fast enough to capture each step. No joking! Each snow block requires four cut areas to free it from the snow bank and I could hardly wind my camera between cuts. This requires an amazing amount of skill (not my camera winding)--as I am confident other novice igloo builders would agree. For the quinzhee builders of the south, I think you will find that the skills of igloo building are quite different, although once built, a similar experience to use.
     As snowblocks are shaped and placed and the shelter offers refuge from the cold, one soon realizes the timeless struggle engaged. Sleeping in an igloo is a fantastic experience. The thick walls insulate you not only from the bitter cold, but also from the noise of the wind and world outside. Standing on the outside of the igloo at night, seeing the light sneak through the joints of the structure and the steam venting out the breath hole, a primal comfort may fill you in the knowing that this will be your oasis for now. Or at least until you collect the air miles to get down to Winnipeg (the nearest city--six hour flight). I hope you find this writing helpful for your igloos and sincerely hope you take part in keeping the skills alive for future generations.
Photo: Chad and Chris wearing traditional and modern snow goggles.


Tools used

      The first step is bringing the right gear. All that is needed is a pana (snow knife). Even when out on a short snowmobile ride,
the least one should have is a pana in terms of possessing the ability to build warm shelter. Some people prefer to bring a subgut (snow probe), shovel and handsaw as well. If one has the luxury of carying these items, then these do provide a convenient service. However, without a snowmobile and sled (qamutiq) I would be very selective in what I bring. Another important aspect is your clothing. Expect to expereince a workout. So, do not dress in your warmest clothes--save those for periods of inactivity. Also, be prepared to have snow falling all over you as you shape blocks over your head. So have appropriate protection (e.g., parka shell with fur trim).Photo: Handy tools: The pana, subgut, and shovel.

The pana

     Once made of caribou antler or bone and since replaced by steel blades, the pana blade is usually around twelve inches long and set well into the handle for strength. This length of blade will easily cut and shape snow blocks. The blade's weak spot is where it joins the handle. I have broken two at this juncture myself (hence, don't use your pana like a nina toy and try to make it stick into the hard snow). The thickness of the blade may be around one eighth of an inch or more. Any thinner, and the strength is lost and may break. As
well, the thickness works well to lift snow out of cut lines with a chopping like motion: An important consideration quickly appreciated. More on this later. The tip of the blade comes to a blunt dagger like point. This point well suits the task of cutting the bottom and tops of snow blocks. The handle gently wedges into the blade. This important feature allows the knife to be plunged into the snow, popping out the snow block upon the wedge making contact with the two sides (i.e., the snow block and bank). The end of the handle has a sharp bend. This bend is convenient for grasping the pana when carving blocks and when plunging the pana into the blocks during the snow block cutting stage.
     The photograph shows various pana possibilities. Note that the black machete has a saw blade on the back side—convenient for sawing difficult or hard snow. But like most multi-purpose items, does none of the intended jobs well.
Photo: From top to bottom: machete, combination machete/saw, subgut, ideal pana, radical handle pana.
The other machete is okay but a little heavy and not an ideal shape. One pana has a peculiar, radical bend in the handle and is good for fitting/placing blocks but not so good for making blocks as the blade is a little thin. A thin blades bends too much and make it difficult to create good blocks (besides being weak). The remaining pana is just about right--thick blade, good taper, good length.

Other tools

     Handsaws make the cutting of snow blocks much easier in areas with poor (too hard) snow. Any old handsaw will do, but like in construction, a sturdy one works well. The saw can be used to cut all the lines but works best only in combination with the pana.
     The shovel works well for: cleaning out the igloo; covering the outer igloo with snow; and filling cracks.
     Lastly, the subgut is used to check for snow layers (good snow) as it is pushed down. It usually has a solid tip (antler) which has a larger diametre than the rest of the shaft. This tip slides easily and resists splintering. The shaft follows without friction.

Subgut (snow probe). Antler tip, willow handle.

Knowing when to build an igloo

      It is not at all uncommon to hear of people dieying during blizzards in the arctic. Those that possess a keen survival awareness surely apply a cautionary approach to staying safe. When a blizzard approaches, one must decide to chance travel, or to stay put and prepare shelter. I have been outside during blizzards--it can be quite un-nerving. Ten paces can separate you from your gear and companions. There are many stories of a similar nature. I have heard tales (likely true) of elders finding their way home during a blizzard by snowdrift formations underfoot. On the other hand, people have become lost walking along the edge of town while on a short walk from point A to B.

           Ideally, one would be prepared with a tent, stove, and sleeping bag (and food etc.) when travelling. A blizzard may be expereinced comfortably in a canves tent with a lit stove and other luxuries. As comfortable as these securities or conveniences are, they should never have one forego a set of practiced survival skills. Gear gets lost, broken, and should not be considered your last line of defence. What impresses me about an outdoors person is the ability to live within the surroundings when the urban gear is set aside or lost. It is my experience that the traditional methods are not only more comfortable and safe, but offer a higher, quality experience--in terms of enjoying the great wonders of nature, not to mention the timeless and primitiveness of living in nature on its own terms and resources.



     The urge to return home and not spend the night (or perhaps three days) waiting out a blizzard can be difficult to overcome. It is even more difficult to convince oneself to stop travels just prior to really bad weather (blizzard). However, your chances of survival greatly diminish by waiting until the blizzard is mostly upon you. Know the forecast, and better yet, learn to forcast. Be on the side of caution! Even practiced igloo builders may have some difficulty building an igloo in a blizzard--not to mention finding the appropriate area and snowpack. However, the igloo offers some protection early in its construction process from the weather.      Don't forget, that a novice igloo builder may take up to three or more hours to build an igloo. This is a lot of exposure time for people waiting for shelter. In an pinch, a small shelter is the way to go.

Knowing where to build an igloo

      I have found that as with most traditional skills, it is not practiced until used in the contexts it will ultimatly be tested--obviously. For example, I was once pretty good at rubbing sticks (bow and drill) to make a fire in the backyard, but that was just the beginning of the road to having learned that skill. I then found that there is quite an art to finding the right materials in the woods. I decided to make a new bow and drill fire set every time I wanted to practice fire building. After a while, I could pick out a tree in the forest from a good distance and be fairly sure upon closer inspection if it would work for fire starting. Only at this point did I realize that my abilities for rubbing sticks to make a fire were becoming dependable. For those who share the traditional spirit, experimentation and testing are part of the fun and a needed step.

     Similar to my experiences of locating the right wood for making the apparatus for starting fires, one must also learn how to find the right snow to build an igloo. It is not wise or easy to just build an igloo anywhere. However, I have seen elders use poor quality snow with success. But, given the choice, one may want to learn with good snow first. One may check for good snow after finding a good location.

Finding a good location

     As I have found thus far, there are basically three things to consider when choosing a good location aside from food sources and other aspects of a more nomadic nature. These are: building on a lake; in proximity to a hill; and on a flat spot. The latter being less important.

On a lake

     I have been told on a few occaisions that an igloo built on a lake-ice is warmer than one inland. This does not make sense to me as I have believed that quinzhees built on the ground are warmer than on ice. However, I am willing to keep my doubts in my back pocket until I learn otherwise. Lakes do offer a flat surface--usually. Also, water is close by for fishing and drinking. So, lets go with igloos on the lake.

Beside a hill

     The arctic is really a desert in terms of precipitation. There is hardly any snow! The wind is usually blowing leaving snow to accumulate around hills--front and back. An inch or two of snow may drift several feet deep over the duration of one blizzard. Be sure to locate your site on the side of the prevailing wind if near steeper hills. I learned the hard way. The igloo we built on the lee side was sheltered from the wind, which was nice, but as we dropped in on the igloo every couple of weeks thereafter we found that we needed to dig down to find the door. Eventually, the top of the igloo was many feet below the snow surface upon which we stopped trying to get in.

     During severe blizzards, igloos can have the sides eroded away. This is remarkable as the snow is very densly packed in the arctic leaving the snow blocks quite solid. The base of the igloo can be protected by the placment of a snow wall to shield it from the blasting snow and provide extra insulation. It would be preferable to protect your igloo from the wind than to be sheltered from the wind but buried in the resulting drift.

A flat area

     An igloo is built by spiraling blocks to the top of the structure. If the surface is not flat, the spiral tends to cause a bit of a problem during construction. The shape of the igloo would look like it is leaning over by the end. However, one may compensate for this by placing a layer of snow blocks on the lower side of the igloo to create a level, starting platform. Once the foundation is level (roughly) then the igloo may be started.

Checking for good snow layers

      The snow for igloo building, ideally, allows for solid (stable), large blocks. Larger blocks make for less work as the structure goes up quickly with less blocks. If you find yourself in an area where the snow is not deep, the blocks will be small and will require more to finish the job. If your snow depth is more than a couple of feet, you will have access to good blocks. That stated, snow has layers that make the snow blocks unstable. These layers are created from different periods of snowfall or blowing snow. Once the snow settles, it hardens and compacts and the sun tends to make the surface of the snow harder. When another layer of snow blows over the previous layer, a weak interface may be created. Sometimes, the area between layers is discoloured from sand or dirt that may have blown across the surface of the snow at one time. The probe (subgut) is used to check the snow for layers.

     The snow probe is simply pushed into the snow. The area between layers of snow register as little pockets of resistance as you push the probe down. Any risistance on the probes journey should be a warning of poor snow. For example, suppose the resistance doubles on the probe as it is pushed down at the eight inche point. This would suggest a distinct layer boundary and would likely have snow blocks break apart upon making. Slight boundaries of reisistance (just noticable) are likely fine. Ideally, the blocks should be around two feet high. So if a snow layer is okay to that depth, you are in luck. If the top layer is eight inches and the layer under that is quite deep, simply shovel off the top six inches and you are left with a good snow layer.

     The snow probe also helps one find snow that is not too dense (hard). That is, you may have deep layers of snow, but if it is very dense, making blocks will be energy intensive. Snow that is not dense enough is rarely an issue--in the arctic. A firm push of the probe should have it slide down through the snow without much effort. One needs to get a feel for this. That stated, you don't need to cut too many blocks before you realize that the snow is too dense. The first block will offer sound feedback of your choice. Also, check around the area with the probe. I have seen good and bad snow in areas very close to one another--like a minefield. I think this occurs simply because of the features of the land and the way snow drifts over it.

Building the igloo

      With previous considerations behind, the building may begin. I try to present this section in a sequential format, prefering to use photographs and drawings in place of thousands of words ... . This will be especially helpful as my spellchekcer is not funtioning on my newly installed linux operating system.

1. Survey your plot

     The first thing to do is survey and mark your igloo boudary. This is perhaps best done by inserting a stick or snow probe in the centre of the igloo site with a attached string. The next step is to create a radius and mark it. This is done with the pana (snow knife). A emergency igloo need not be large. Perhaps only large enough to lay down in. Mark out the igloo radius well as the lines may get covered up otherwise. Do not skip this step. A diametre of six or seven feet is the largest you should start with on your first igloo--unless you have all day.

2. Snow block lines

     Now you are ready to make your snow blocks. The is done by marking the lines from where you will escavate the blocks. All blocks may come from inside the igloo. The lines should be at least two feet apart and parrallel to one another. These should be well etched into the snow. In fact, you may cut these lines as deep as your pana will allow. I like to first, lightly cut the lines and make sure that sure that they are straight and parrallel. Then I correct and cut the lines deeper.
Photos. Left: marking circumference. Right: marking snow block lines.


3. Cutting your first block

     The first block to be cut out is done from one end. The pana cuts, hacks, and digs out a sharp wedge just prior to where the first block will come out. Cut this wedge right to the bottom of the snow or about two feet deep. At the bottom of the wedge, cut under your first block as far as possible (8" is plenty).
     Now, deepen your snow block (side) lines down to the bottom or to two feet (depending how deep your blocks are). Use an up and down hacking motion to do this to make your cut lines are at least two inches wide all the way down. Doing this allows your block to come out of the trench freely without getting stuck. The hacking motion of the pana both cuts and clears out the cut of snow that would linger there. You need to slide your hands on each side of the block to lift it out after if has been cut out. Your first block should now be unattached along all the edges except the back side.
     Now for one of the magical parts of cutting blocks. Carefully mark a line that will state the width of the block. This is usually around five to six inches thick. Using both hands on the pana, run the blade back and forth along this line until the depth of your cut is a few to eight inches deep--experiment with the depth. Ensure that the cut has also gone to the edges to free them--or the block may break.
Photo right: The first block. Wedge cut out. Width of block being scribed.
     Now, place your pana blade down into this cut line. Plunge the pana blade straight down and also plunge your free hand in too a foot away from the puna. The pressure will pop the block out. Your free hand adds some pressure too but mainly helps the block pop out unbroken. If you only used the pana, you may find that you break more blocks.
     Your first block is ready! If you broke your first block that is fine. Why? Because your first block will end up being small as it is used as a ramp for the second layer of blocks to run up on. Actually, the first two or three blocks form this ramp that elevates the second row to two feet off the ground. This will make more sense later. Also, broken blocks can later used to patch cracks and holes in the igloo. For now though, simply place your first block along the igloo wall line and not by the now, imaginary door (do not have your door facing the wind).

Photo left. Two blocks cut out and placed onto perimetre of the igloo.
Cad drawing of igloo circumference, snow block lines, and snow blocks to be removed from within the igloo perimetre. Note, more blocks may be removed from the sides as well. Snow blocks to be cut out as shown

4. Build on a good foundation: your first row of blocks

     Let he fun begin!
Note: The bottom of your blocks should always remain the bottom when placed into the wall structure. It has a layer of snow that is more granular that acts like cement to fit to the block or ground underneath. The tops of the blocks are denser and harder becuase of
the sun,cold, and wind.
     The first row holds the rest, so take the time to ensure the blocks are stable. Too many times I have been involved in sections collapsing or being rebuilt becuase of poor fitting blocks. Also, lean the first row in towards the centre of the igloo, only slightly. To do this, the bottom of the blocks need to be smoothed and angled a little to meet the ground. However, it is not necesary that the first row be leaning in. Just be careful, as I have seen many beginers create a bit of a tower, with vertical walls.      Another point to consider is whether you place your igloo blocks in a clockwise or counter-clockwise fashion. If you are somewhat ambidextrous, no need to concern yourself. However, if you plan to hold the pana in your right hand (as most would), you should choose a counter-clockwise spiral. The reason is practical of course. As one holds a block in place with the left hand, the right hand carves and fits the block into place with the block beside it. To do otherwise would be awkward--very! In the photo, the igloo is being build in a clockise fashion so the pana is held in the left hand and the block is stabilized with the right hand.
     The blocks should be butted against the previous one closely by shaping the block with the pana. The angle beteen blocks is not as important as the fit. Some people people go with an angle that originates from the centre of the igloo and radiates out like spokes on a wheel. Others tend to change this angle by 30 degrees or so. Changing this angle may help to hold blocks in place by adding surface area to the joints. This is more important near the top of the igloo as the walls hang over head almost defying gravity. More on this angle later.

Photo left. First row. Off-centre angle preference: angle between blocks NOT directed towards centre of igloo (more difficult).



Top view. Fitting the blocks together: two styles/methods.
NOTE: the blocks on the right (angled style) are being added in a clockwise fashion.

4. Now the rest of your blocks

      As your blocks make their way back around to the first block, simply cave a ramp into the first two or three blocks to continue your spiral up onto the first row of blocks. In fact, you should now take some time to shape the tops of your first row of blocks. They should be uniform with the tops angled slightly towards the inside of the igloo.
Your second row of blocks demands that you start paying attention to your fittings as your blocks will now begin to angle more with each row until the last block is simply a plug hanging flat on the top.     The trick of making a block stay in place is ensuring good contact between the top-right corner of the block with the previous block. And, the bottom-left corner of your block with the lower row that it rests upon. This is assuming that you are placing your blocks in a counter-clockwise formation. Note that if your block hinges or rests along its bottom surface, or its right vertival side areas, without good contact on the areas for mentioned, gravity will pull your block to the ground. If this is confusing, try to visualize a line from the top-right corner of your block to the bottom-left corner of your block.
The majority of the blocks weight is on the lower half. Thus if only the two points mentioed make contact, you are likely fine. If these extremities are floating because of contact along the block before this point, it will fail to hold. Even if it does hold, the next row on top of this block with be wobbly and unstable. That stated, you still want the block to fit very close all the way along the edges or you will be doing a lot of filling later; but, this takes some practice to master.



Corners to make good contact:Top-right and bottom-left.

     Continue your spriral of blocks towards the top. At this point, you will be slowly locking yourself into the igloo with no way out. Once you are on your third row, however, you may cut a small door in your igloo. Do not cut this door so that you are facing the dominant winds. Consider using one end of your snow block trench for the door. Also, you may be needing to get blocks from the outside of the igloo if your run out. There is potential blocks along the edges of the trench that you are cutting within your igloo. Use them up.      Perhaps this next point should have been mentioned earlier, but as you place your block down on previous rows, ensure that the top of the previous row is smoothed and angled towards the centre point of the igloo floor. This being the case, as each row gets higher, the angle is more extreme. This will ensure that your igloo turns itself into a near dome like structure.


Sectioned view: angle the tops of rows towards bottom-centre. View of interior.


     As you near the top of the igloo with your blocks, your skills will be tested. The angle you create between a new block and the previous one should now not be a radiated angle from the centre of the igloo (even though it will work). Instead, change the angle to offer more surface area and support for your near horizontal snow block. This is just a personal preference that I adopted from one of the elders. It is hard to say what shape you will have to carve the last couple of blocks. But, they need to be crafted first, then lifted into place and worked on further.


Last blocks near horizontal: alost defying gravity.


Final block. Shaped and lifted sideways out of igloo, then lowered into place.

5. Fire exit

     Entrances are always small to keep drafts to a minimum. To fashion one, make a tunnel for the door; or cut out some blocks; or do a combination of the two. A wall of blocks with a flat or angled roof works fine. By this time, you should have enough experience with blocks to fashion something that will work. The doorway will later be plugged to keep out drifting snow and drafts when inside. The door plug may be a pack, caribou skin, or a block of snow.

6. Plugging the holes

     If you made it this far you have done well! You may shovel snow onto you strucure but plug the larger holes with carved snow. That is, place a chunk of snow into place and carve off the excess. Clean out the igloo floor.

7. Have you considered a window?

     Go to the ice, find a deep crack in the ice and chip a piece out with your taaq (ice chisel). Better yet, locate a pressure ridge on the lake where large chunks of ice are available. CAUTION: pressure ridges are weak spots and should be avoided unless familiar with them. Now, carve out a hole in your igloo and replace it with the chunk of ice. It is amazing how much light this lets in. A nice finishing touch!

Further considerations

      Steam from your breath (and CO2), cooking, and body heat will fill the igloo. Getting your insulating layers of clothing wet from humidity in your igloo is something to avoid as is a carbon dioxide build-up. You should cut a hole in the cealing to avoid this. I find adding a candle or small flame helps to cut through the moisture as well. Also, consider a supply of fresh air to help remove the humidity and keep your breathing fresh air by allowing some air in from the door. The balance is in not letting in too much cold.
     Bedding areas are best elevated off the floor where it is away from the coldest air. Raise a platform by making blocks to fashion one. Or, make a block gate and fill in the reisdue snow with a shovel. This will make a confortable sitting area and bed.
     Other igloos may be made and joined to your igloo. You may have rooms for different purposes like eating, sleeping, and storage. Now let your imagination and the interior decorator in you take over to make the igloo home. Just do NOT not get addicted to those home decoration shows! Caribou skin flooring works best to keep the cold under your igloo. Even on bitterly cold days, inside temperatures of the igloo may be quite agreeable.The photo shown here has a large 12 foot diametre igloo with a short tunnel to a small 5 foot diametre igloo. This offers storage space without needing to go outside.
     When good snow is really scarce, it is possible to cut blocks from shallow layers of snow. Just visualize the blocks laying on the ground and cut out accordingly. Or, use the blocks that are eight inches high. I have not done this myself, but keep this knowledge for a day when I have time to experiment (hopefully before I need to rely on it).

Closing thoughts

     Camping in the wilds in traditional shelters is an experience not soon forgotten. Envision yourself making your own shelter, sleeping comfortably in it. Upon waking, you get up and out of the shelter and you see steam pouring out of the chimney (vent) holes of the igloo amongst a little snow shelter village. What a sight: steam in the moonlight. Everyone inside is warm and sleeping as the snow blocks, door, window and vents shine dimmly from the candles lit inside.

      Northern lights are a common site in the north although not as brillaint as found further south, along the treeline. However, the laser sharp greens and light purples do offer a wonderful ceiling over your igloo.The snow is dense and hard and makes a sound like two pieces of styrofoam rubbing together when you walk.

     While many of the igloos in these photos were being made, caribou could be seen in the hills a few hundred metres away. Once upon standing after cutting a snow block, I looked up to see an arctic fox with my recently removed rabbitt skin hat in its mouth. The arctic fox has a thick, brillaint white coat with dark black eyes that stand out from a distance. It is experiences just like these that become burned into my memory, and keep me revisiting the natural places still available. More than just a good memory, positive experiences in nature have been shown to foster the emotional attachments to it that foster pro-environmental behaviours.

     The traditional skills and gear, besides keeping one safe, just seem to fit-in more than the contemporary, petrol-chemically based gear and clothing. The later invoke connections to an overly mechanized society where industry and tragic mining practices have caused irreversible harm to the environment. That is part of the reason why it seems important to keep things simple and natural, which for me, includes including some of the age-old land-skills. These have a way of making one more aware and attentative to the land and natural processes. This is where the essence of the nature experience becomes a little clearer for me.

Best of luck with your igloo, let me know how it turns out.